DUBAI. Undoubtedly one of the most fascinating places on the planet. And for all the same reasons one of the most repugnant.
Ten years ago, if youd even heard of the place you probably wouldnt have been able to place it on the map. Youd almost certainly have had no image of it in your minds eye.
The shiny high-rise city centre, the extravagant, spectacular skyscrapers, the worlds glitziest marina were not there then.
Today they stand for modernity as Manhattan once did. But if the towers of Manhattan in the 1920s were the summit of capitalism triumphant, those of Dubai in 2009 are the pinnacle of its decadence.
At 2,684ft, the Burj Dubai is of course the worlds highest man-made structure.
Its not beautiful, or even particularly striking to look at, unlike some of those it dwarfs around it. Just big. Full of look-at-me arrogance. Merely show-off rich.
The perfect symbol, in fact, of all that modern Dubai represents. Right down to the huge number of immigrant workers who have built it.
And the grim poverty and dire working conditions in which theyve done it.
For thats what Dubai is really about. Not just the fabulous new wealth that has attracted pop stars, top tennis and motor-racing events, but the bitter exploitation that has made it all possible.
When Pink, whose songs reveal a real social conscience, played in Dubai, I wonder what thought she gave to the thousands of the citys inhabitants who couldnt have afforded a ticket if theyd saved for a year.
And was Elton Johns concert there a flag flown against the repression of homosexuality? Or was it about the money?
The theory of evolution is considered taboo in Dubai. Strange, considering how quickly and dramatically the city state itself has evolved.
Alcohol is also taboo there. Officially. Which is also odd in a place recently dubbed partying capital of the world.
Of course, its not the locals doing the partying. And its not most of the resident immigrants, either, who account for 84 per cent of the population.
Some of those have been drawn there by the opportunities for fast living, fast cars and glamour. Some no doubt have been satisfied by all that.
But most have been drawn there, predominantly from south Asia, by the promise of an escape from poverty. And found themselves in a worse poverty trap than they have left.
A mostly male world of long working hours, nights on crowded floors and little prospect of ever earning enough for the flight home.
While around the corner a patch of desert is watered to host the worlds richest golf tournament.
What was the European Order of Merit has become the Race to Dubai. Which just about says it all.
What was a noble sport has become an undignified scramble for dosh.
And talking of noble sports
Though you wont yet find Dubai, or anywhere near it, among the worlds Test-playing nations, the International Cricket Council has moved there from London.
Horse-racing and heavy metal have sprung up there. Its a place where Kylie Minogue, The Jonas Brothers and investment banking all belong in the same sentence.
Where the fabulously rich and wealthy gather in flagrant disregard for the citys Muslim traditions to be fabulously decadent.
Decadence. Defined in my dictionary as moral degeneration or decay. Often considered to be what ushered in the fall of the Roman empire.
Or, from Wikipedia: Decadent societies are often prosperous but usually have severe social and economic inequality, to such a degree that the upper class becomes either complacent or greedy, while the lower classes become hopeless and apathetic.
Which sounds like Dubai, except that its not all home-grown. This small spot on the Arabian peninsula has become a magnet for the greedy upper and hopeless lower classes of a wider world.
A desert meeting-point of rich West and poor East. A place with no more obvious reason to exist than Las Vegas.
Both are frontier gambling towns. Where Vegas is built on roulette wheels and slot-machines, Dubai places its chips on the worlds stock exchanges.
Its tempting to see Dubais decadence as a focus of capitalisms dying throes.
And those glittering towers are certainly a crystalline encrustation of the worlds banking system, now tottering.
But its more complicated than that. Because Dubai, where much of the wealth and all of the law-making are in the hands of one family, is the place where capitalism meets feudalism.
Those workers existing in medieval poverty are living in a medieval system.
In their way, Dubais towers are like the cathedrals and mosques of the medieval world. Except that they stand to the glory not of God or Allah but of Mammon.
The colossal Burj Dubai is due to be officially opened a month from today. Not great timing, as it turns out.
I cant find it in me to be sorry about the imminent collapse of the Dubai economy though I fear for the trapped migrant workers.
What the effects of the giants fall will be everywhere else may be another matter.
- Taken from my weekly column for the Ipswich Evening Star: [link]
- I have three new poems in the latest edition of the online mag Great Works, here: [link]
My
featured friend this week has the good fortune to live in one of my favourite parts of the world and gets to walk his dog and his camera in some wonderful mountain landscapes. Go visit =
rdalpes and see what I mean:
Mon ami de la semaine a la bonne chance d'habiter dans un endroit que j'aime bien, et de faire promenade avec son chien et son appareil dans des bels paysages. Faites visite a =rdalpes et voyez les beaux alpes vous-memes:
Now here are some other great things that caught my eye:



